Delightful book showcases some of London’s most charming delis

From long running family-run independents to cocktail mixing and charcuterie plating newcomers, here are some of Barber's top picks – is your local one of them?

4COSE, Bethnal Green (Image: David Post)

1 4COSE, Bethnal Green

An artist-curated storecupboard essentials

After starting out by ‘dealing’ delicious parmigiano reggiano in 2015, artists Charlotte Cullinan and Jeanine Richards and art director Andrea Sassi opened their small art-filled grocery store on the gallery-heavy Vyner Street in 2017.

The concept is simple: focus on the quatre cose (four things) key to making a great meal – exceptional parmesan, pasta, olive oil and salami – and sell only one type of each.

The lack of choice is wonderfully refreshing, although they do stock a few other bits and bobs like ’nduja paste, coppa ham, arborio rice and panettone – if you have any change after investing in a £30 chunk of the ‘king of cheese’.

Address: 7 Vyner Street, E2 9DG

Nearest station: Cambridge Heath

Website: 4cose.london

Delicatessen Serrana (Image: David Post)

2 Delicatessen Serrana, Stockwall

A community hub in Little Portugal

It might reside on the deafening A3, but step inside Serrana and you’ll feel like you’re back on holiday in a Lisbon mini-mart.

The salt cod fridge takes pride of place – as it should – next to a counter crammed with salami (both the meat and chocolate varieties), sugary cakes and traditional Iberian lunch fodder like chicken escalope and breaded swordfish.

Other rooms lie beyond, replete with wine and covetable terracotta tableware. Most customers will be speaking Portuguese, and every- one seems to know each other – so stick around for a bica coffee and make some friends.

Address: 224 Clapham Road, SW9 0PZ

Nearest station: Stockwell

Website: @delicatessenserrana

Gallo Nero (Image: David Post)

3 Gallo Nero, Stoke Newington

A slice of rustic Italy

There’s a good chance that you’ll spot a real life nonna in this family-run favourite chatting animatedly to the owner Michael.

Keeping Stoke Newingtonites in parmesan and olives since 1988, Gallo Nero brings together hard-to-find delicacies like cuttlefish ink and rum baba with classic Italian meats and cheeses.

The wooden shelves are laden with Sicilian olive oil (sold on tap) and row upon row of dried pasta, including the longest spaghetti you’ll ever see, as well as all the aperitivi ingredients you need for a long summer evening.

Address: 45 Newington Green Road, N1 4QT

Nearest station: Canonbury  & Stoke Newington

Website: @galloneroitaliandeli_

German Deli (Image: David Post)

4 German Deli, Walthamstow

For wieners in a warehouse

You could easily miss the modest sign alerting you to this European enclave hidden in an industrial estate selling Deutsch condiments and larder staples to loyal customers.

There are freshly baked pretzels and cakes, including creamy and surprisingly not sickly-sweet German bienenstich cake and poppyseed crumble.

Oh, and then there’s their impressive selection of cooking, slicing and spreading sausages, including smoked salami, veal liver pâté and gooey cheese-stuffed wurst.

Be sure to stock up on curry ketchup too so you can satisfy that currywurst craving without booking a trip to Berlin.

Address: Unit 11, Forest Trading Estate, Priestley Way, E17 6AL

Nearest station: Blackhorse Road

Website: germandeli.co.uk

Lina Stores (Image: Lina Stores)

5 LINA STORES Lina Stores, Soho & various locations

Prestige Italian deli chain

Back in the day, Lina Stores was an old-school deli with a ceiling covered in low-hanging hams. Then in 2018, it had a serious glow-up: the iconic façade of turquoise tiles became part of a slick rebrand that launched an in-house range of produce and a handful of pasta restaurants. Does it feel a bit more corporate? Yes. Is the food any good? Absolutely. Come here to sample regional cheeses and hams, beautifully crimped fresh ravioli and homemade sauces. It’s also a great place to find gifts, like colourful tins of amaretti or bottled negroni – though there are still enough dangling meats to give you a mild concussion.

Address: 18 Brewer Street, W1F 0SG

Nearest station: Tottenham Court Road

Website: linastores.co.uk

Mestizo Mexican Market (Image: David Post)

6 Mestizo Mexican Market, Regent's Park

Friendly Mexican mini-mart

Surprisingly, there’s a slice of sunny Mexico just off Euston Road. Whether you want to make tacos or fajitas – or just get a seriously good bottle of tequila blanco – this colourful store has everything you need for a fiesta: salsas and hot sauces, frijoles, humongous bags of tortilla chips and over ten dif- ferent varieties of dried chilli.

There’s also a cast of big Day of the Dead skeletons, cacti and a mas- sive fake Chihuahua to keep you company as you browse.

Feeling lazy? Check the freezer for stuffed tamales and Mexican ready meals. Or, if you’re too hungry to wait, head to their vibrant restau- rant next door.

Address: 101 Hampstead Road, NW1 3EL

Nearest station: Warren Street

Website: mestizomarket.com

Monte's (Image: David Post)

7 Monte's, Islington

High-end Italian specialist

With its pristine glass counter, displays of Dolce & Gabbana-branded Sicilian sweets and high ceiling (and, ahem, prices), Monte’s could be mistaken for a luxury boutique.

But it’s not all about the aes- thetic – and there’s nothing superficial about their friendly welcome or passion for Italian fare. They stock regional specialities and artisanal produce, always of the highest quality, whether it’s jars of demi-glacé cherries or fig and walnut biscotti.

Raid the aforementioned glass counter for truffled pecorino and homemade rocket pesto – and look out for the framed photo of the owners with the ultimate gourmand: Danny DeVito.

Address: 23 Canonbury Lane, N1 2AS

Nearest station: Highbury & Islington

Website: montesdeli.com

An Opinionated Guide to London Deli by Sonya Barber is published by Hoxton Mini Press (Image: Hoxton Mini Press)