Victoria Purcell reviews the newly revamped Princess of Wales on the edge of Blackheath and discovers a pub restaurant fit for royalty
The Princess of Wales, a great pub with views over the expanses of Blackheath, just got even better. It’s had a revamp. Not that I could tell on my first visit since the makeover, because it was packed wall-to-wall with rugby fans watching the Six Nations. That’s not something you can feel aggrieved of here though, given the pub’s history with the sport (it served as the changing room for the first-ever England-Wales international, which was played on the heath).
Dark olive walls are festooned with pictures depicting princesses, keeping watch over her patrons as they lounge on the regal purple leather-trimmed booths below – where we bagged a seat on our non-rugby-day return visit. From here you’re just a step away from the bar, which has been painted a pale blue, staving off that dark, dreary look British boozers often take on. Also in my line of sight was the conservatory, looking somewhat tropical with its ample greenery.
The pub seems to be ‘zoned’ better now – the conservatory forms a slightly more formal dining area, the sofas are perfect for dissecting the Sunday papers, and the wood-panelled snug is now much snugger with a couple of high-backed red-leather armchairs by the fireplace. That fantastic beer garden out back has had a lick of paint too, and with the addition of retractable covers and a few more heat lamps, you can enjoy it whatever the weather.
The menu features British pub classics with carefully sourced ingredients and a sprinkle of flair and originality. We enjoyed a starter of warmed humous (new to me and a joy to discover) with bread, baby beetroot, carrots and turnips to dip. My friend ordered the West Country beef burger with smoked bacon, dolcelatte cheese and avocado with fries – fantastically messy if you don’t know how to handle a stacked burger, but tasty indeed. I ordered the roast chicken Caesar salad with croutons, anchovies and house Caesar dressing. The chicken was perfectly succulent and the anchovies punchy, but the dressing had turned the crisp lettuce soggy by the time I got to the bottom, so you’d be wise to order it on the side.
On the drinks front, you can now choose from a host of new draft beers, including Camden Hells Lager, Hacker-Pschorr Weisse, Curious Brew and rotating guest beers. The wine list ranges from a grassy, young Sandbox Chenin Blanc from South Africa to a floral, minerally Marc Brocard Chablis from France (the latter a little steep at £10.65 for a large glass). I’ve yet to sample the Viognier, the Australian Chardonnay or the Pinot Grigio, but come summer, I think the garden may play host to more than a few impromptu wine tastings…
1a Montpelier Row, Blackheath SE3 ORL; princessofwalespub.co.uk
The Knowledge
Cost
Two courses for two with a shared starter, £28.50
Good for…
Catching up with friends
What to eat…
Everything from brunch to burgers and Sunday roasts
What to know…
Rugby internationals are for drinking, not dining…
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